Friday, February 27, 2009

a pinch of this and a dash of that

It was at a potluck lunch at a friend’s place that I met this lady. She is my friend’s cousin who has been in various foreign countries for a few decades now. She loved the food and periodically asked for recipes of this or that dish – particularly my rasam. Now for most South Indians this is a basic dish that doesn’t generate a lot of enthusiasm. When babies are first introduced to rice they start with bland lentils and then graduate to rasam which is their first introduction to all the spice that would follow them wherever they go for the rest of their lives. A child that starts its initiation into culinary world with the mild taste of pepper, daniya, jeera and chillies will never be satisfied with any other kind of food around the globe – his palate is ruined to the softer cuisines – all of them taste like mud after his tongue has grown to delight in the sharp taste of tamarind, chillies and pepper.
And so, when my guests ask me for a recipe of rasam I feel let down. When the menu contains dishes I have laboured over – like paruppu usili or avial or poricha kootu, they single out the easiest and simplest of them all and sing its praises. It is at these times that I wish I had just cooked rice and rasam and served it with some roasted papads – an unthinkable insult to a guest in a Tamilian household unless they are sick or something!
Anyway this story is not about Rasam. So what is it about? I am not very sure myself.

May be it is about Spoons. You must be thinking that I have kind of lost it – talking about camels first and now spoons. What is there to talk about spoons? I did not know too, until I started giving her the recipe for rasam.:
‘Soak a little tamarind in water’ I started.
She asked: ‘How much is a little?’
‘About this much’ I said making a small ball with my fingers.
‘But I will be using a paste. So how many spoons should I use?”
“ok. Perhaps two small spoons” I said
‘you mean coffee spoon or moka spoon?’ she asked.
I hadn’t even heard of these in my entire life - I use the same kind of spoon for tea, coffee, sugar and sambar powder!

In our house, we use our fingers to eat. Always have. So spoons have never been an issue. All the spoons in my mother’s kitchen were of different sizes – they had come as free gifts along with purchases of coffee powder, soap powder or even talcum powder. We never considered them as measures- my mother knew how much of the ingredients she needed for the dish and she used the spoon to scoop them out. We could use a ladle to take out salt ‘to taste’. The back of the ladle or spoon or even a spatula served fine for ‘a pinch’ of something. Your eyes knew how much you needed for the dish and the implement in hand was just a tool not a measure. Spoons of different shapes and sizes were also convenient for serving spicy stuff like pickles – so as far as our house was concerned spoons were smaller ladles that fit nicely into spice containers ; and their size also made them convenient implements to shove food into your mouth if your fingers were not available for the same; and very useful for feeding someone else – babies and sick people.

Way back in the early eighties someone gifted me with a fine cutlery set and I was rather puzzled about the assortment of spoons, forks and knives of different shapes and sizes. And a friend enlightened me on the purpose of each. Having traveled a bit since those days and dined at some fancy places, I do know a bit about the mysteries of cutlery at the dining table. But I still find it difficult to reduce my recipes to teaspoons and tablespoons.

At least I am better than my grandmother’s recipes. She and her mother filled the house with the heavenliest aromas when they cooked and their dishes tasted ‘just so’ every time. But ask them for a recipe and they would act like you asked them for the combination of the lock to the royal mint. Or they would give you a recipe that sounded like a list of ingredients printed on packaged food these days:
Add sambar powder, hing and salt to tamarind water. Add vegetables. When it has boiled enough, take it down and garnish.
‘No paati. Tell me the ingredients first’
“I already told you’
‘ok. I will figure that out. How much of each?’
‘Kannthittama podu’ ( meaning use your eyes as the guide to how much is needed for the dish)
‘That doesn’t work paati. tell me, how much?”
Then she would take the tip of her thumb up to a line on the ring finger or pinkie and say ‘this much’
‘But Paati your fingers are bigger than mine’ I’d whine
“ya so adjust accordingly”

In any case how was I to write down a measure like that!
Or she would say ‘watch me next time I make the dish and learn’ which would be an ordeal because you were not supposed to touch so many things in the kitchen or you were expected to wash your hands every time you touched something. And she would be so quick around the kitchen that if your attention wandered a bit she would have added something to the dish which you would have missed. I used to really think that she was being mean and did not want to part with her secret recipes. But only years later I understood that it is very difficult to reduce a recipe into teaspoons and tablespoons of ingredients.
That is why I have great respect for people like Tarla Dalal and food bloggers like Nandita and Vandana who give exact measurements for each ingredient in a recipe. Now when my son or daughter-in-law ask me for a recipe I simply give them the URL to these blogs. And this is where I finally directed my NRI friend - to check with one of these food bloggers for the recipe. Thank you Nandita and Vandana.

Now I understand the importance of teaspoons and tablespoons in our lives. How would we eat anything even half decent were it not for these? But I still do not understand why a teaspoon isn’t good enough for Coffee or Moka. Do you think my bottle of nescafé might explode if I used a teaspoon in it? or would my cup of Moka curdle? Or would it just be another unpardonable social faux pas? Anyone willing to enlighten this philistine?

32 comments:

choxbox said...

yay first comment!

when we first went to live outside india i tried to make monthaal ( a gujju sweet) for diwali. used the exact ingredients and process that my Nani dictated over phone. the result though was entirely different from hers, possibly because she couldn't show me how much when she said 'just a little' or a 'bit more'!

Altoid said...

:-). I find it tedious to eat with cutlery, I eat best with my hands. And this tbsp, tsp thing is alien to me too- for me everything is 'andaaz'. I dont believe Indian cooking is an exact science, its more of chaotic art :)

Except for baking, which is why sometimes its therapeutic- all about measurements and mixing and pouring....

Awesome topic, as always!

Bones said...

Yeash, tsps. and tbsps. are a problem with me when I give out my recipes...'Andaaz se' is what I say...

shy said...

Lol'd, as with all other posts.

I am one of those survivor cooks who does not know to give recipe. Because I eyeball the measurements. But the sad part, that is where the commanlity ends..my dishes are not that divine or aromatic.
btw, eagerly peek here for new posts day after day. added you to my little space.hope you won't mind.

Anamika said...

How relatable !! My friends think I am unwilling to share a recipe when something I make turns out good. Its all about how your hand/mind/eye treats the various ingredients. For e.g., I love ginger in my fod and I use dollops of ginger paste. I tell that about the recipe, they try it out and then say it didnt pack that punch...why...because they thought a tablespoon would be enough !! So its a case where I tell the truth, they dont believe me and then I am liar.

Dhanya said...

I can identify with both the situations.. When I started experimenting with cooking I was so confused as to what to put, when to put n how much to put... But now I'm kind of comfortable I also tend to tell people the recipes like you described and I get the same questions :) But yeh since I know their situation I try to be considerate.. :)

mystic_life said...

lol, I am the same way. Except I am not even so good as you regarding using the spoon, I just use my hands. I have spice bottles, and I just pour from the spice bottle (or flick) what I need into my hands. if I need to grind, I use both my palms. I mean, my hands will be clean, but I would never wash my hands adding from one spice to another; just before I add the spices as a whole, and then before I add more if I have to add more and then only if I have touched something that I needn't of (raw meat or an animal, or soemthing not food).

I have eaten in some Indian households and love eating with my hands, but am always embarrassed to around my american friends/family without cutlery, which results in me not getting any practice in and then lookin like a baby or something when I eat with other Indians.

kusublakki said...

My mom once taught me how to make eggless chocolate cake over the phone. She said put 7 teaspoons of cocoa, and i put 70 spoons of cocoa!
So I am not really spoon friendly :)

DotThoughts said...

a post after my own heart. I eyeball everything that goes in. I am also far more comfortable eating with my hands :)

Sree said...

haha enjoyed reading this!!
For me I use the exact measurement from a recipe during one of those 'i wanna really cook today' days as against 'lemme just cook something'days.Yes,the taste ofcourse differes both times.:)

Sujatha said...

I not only use the 'kannthittam' method of adding spices and salt to the regular S.Indian recipes, but have taken to doing so even when making things like pizza, apple crisps and pie crusts. Its more about the feel and specific taste than just the tablespoons and teaspoon measures!

Gradwolf said...

Oh, how can you call rasam sadam and roasted papads an insult? It is divine!

Though this is not the point of the post, it is annoying when people tell you to use spoons and forks and have Indian food. I always insist, Indian food is not supposed to be eaten that way. But what the hell, some etiquette it seems! :p

But yeah, it is difficult when you don't have people like food bloggers or sanjeev kapoors. I think the ammas and maamis have trivialized cooking that they dont see the difficulty when they explain things. But I also think cooking has to be experienced. And I find it very very difficult to totally mess up a dish. Hasn't happened so far. :)

Mystic Margarita said...

Great post! Didn't someone famous say that eating with cutlery was like professing one's love through a middleman? :)

Raj said...

I guess, for paatis, cooking was an art, not a science. Spoons and measures didn't figure in their scheme. Only sound judgement. Ha, those were the days....

Anonymous said...

I think there's no better way than trial and error ... initially I used to use spoons as a measure but now I just look at the colour of the item I'm cooking ... so I know I've added less tamarind if the colour of the paste is not the dark brown I'm looking for .. same with chilly powder in curry ... it needs to be that mild red .. and with tea too .. you need to add tea powder and milk to get that light brown .. i think it works best for me ...

Sid

hillgrandmom said...

Usha, me too, me too--never heard of coffee spoon or moka spoon. Maybe we are from another era or what?

dipali said...

After my own heart, this!
Lalita did a superb post on a similar theme- I wonder if you remember it?
Here's the link:http://lalitalarking.blogspot.com/2007/06/frying-potatoes-101.html

Anonymous said...

Delurking...longtime reader :) Sympathise heartily with this attitude...I cook the same way, having been taught that way by gran and mother! Now that I've started teaching my kids how to cook, I tried to be more exact, but realised very quickly that the sooner they learnt the eyeball technique, the better for them!

M

Mama - Mia said...

:)

what IS Moka! no, i wont google it and hide my ignorance! :p

you know! i bought EXACT sized spoons my mom uses in masala dabba when i got married for MY masala dabba and am quite sure will mess up big time if i have to cook at someone elses place! sigh! not that with my limited cuillinary skills i offer such things! ;)

and all the food you spoke about made me drool! now that we have established we are enighbours, i will jsut wait for the invite! :p

and i still cant cut the meat with knife and hence prefer boneless varieties where fork can do the needful without other piece flying into someone elses plate! :P

enough of the post length comment! loved the post!

cheers!

abha

mystic_life said...

loll! mama-mia, you're a hoot !

Hip Grandma said...

'rasam when made by mom was simply delicious' says the son. mil is all smiles and dil glares at him. so a tambrahm family meal is incomplete when the rasam goes missing.we're a wicked lot when we compare notes and announce that'east or west,our rasamis the best' 1

akamonica said...

When i first moved to Blore on my own, i only knew how to boil milk! I would ask amma the quantities of the ingredients and she would say the same things you described in your post. Now I'm a super cook and when people ask me recipes, even i'm unable to give measurements. I truly admire tarla dalal, sanjeev kapoor and everyone else who post up recipes with exact measurements.

Art said...

i totally agree.. when i started asking mom for reciepes over phone and she used to give me measurements like this.. I used to actually fight with her.. that she is not explaining it right... Mom started measuring her little bit and bit more in spoons and then used to tell me... Else I tell her what kind of measuring stuff I have so that she can tell me relatively... Now when I tell her somehting new which I tried.. I tell her the same way.. and not in spoon measurements :)

Sumana said...

You said it right. I feel some people are a talented lot. Whatever they make be it just rasam tastes good. So true when one gets used to rasam even though you would like to taste different other foods, you would like to come back to the old rasam which is rejuvenating.

Biju said...

Had to look up "moka" :-)

Vandana said...

Thanks so much Usha for mentioning my blog on your space! I was surprised to read my name! I also feel the same way when translating a recipe that I cook, to writing it on my blog. So If I know that I am going to be blogging the recipe, then I am more conscious about using measuring spoons and make sure I blog soon after I cook....otherwise I forget!!
Vandana

Just Like That said...

Loved this post.

Usha said...

Choxbox: Yay indeed!
Don't even get me started on telephone recipes. I love the video recipes as there is no confusion about sauting, stir frying or frying.

Altoid:"I don't believe Indian cooking is an exact science, its more of chaotic art :)"
I agree.

Bones: Andaz se - a dangerous word when it comes to salt. I think 'Follow your tastebuds' is a better instruction.

Shy:Divine and aromatic they will be. when you have cooked for 20 years I think. That's what happened to me.
Thanks for adding me.Will come over to your space soon.

Anamika: I used to think that too when my recipes didn't turn out as well as the one who gave it to me - that they probably omitted some magic ingredient.

Dhanya: Oh yes, I forgot about the "when to put' bit - that is another bane of my life.

Havah:Now aren't you a chef's daughter? no wonder you know exactly what to do.
Spices - I agree. you need to have a feel for them to know how much is 'enough'.
I understand your position with cutlery but guess what, we have some dishes which make it ridiculous to try eating them with a fork and it takes the fun out of eating the dish.

Kusublakki:You measured 70 spoons of cocoa?! hahahah. I am not even going to ask you how the cake tasted!

Dot: I notice that people who are not kitchen-unfriendly usually feel comfortable with eyeballing.

Sree: I know what you mean. I am not inclined to pay too much attention to routine stuff either. But on days I decide to tie the apron and experiment yes, everything has to be perfect!

Sujatha: I am always worried about using kannthittam when it comes to baking. You must be an expert!

Gradwolf: You must be a natural cook not to have really messed anything so far. Ask me about the dishes I have ruined - may be I'll do a post on those!

Mystic margarita: I am in love with whoever said that.

Raj: And that is all they did too - all day. They had to be good!

Sid: Colour can be very deceptive especially these days with all the artificial colouring that is added to the ready made spice powders!
As for tea - yes, that right colour makes all the difference.

Hillgran: We are, we are. I only know the big spoon and the small spoon.

Dipali: Thanks for the link to that beautiful post.All her posts were brilliant.

M: Thanks for delurking to comment. It shows one's level of confidence when one has graduated to eye balling.

Abha: Hahha...
I think it is that tiny spoon that they give with coffee on airplanes, coffee shops etc.
I intend to kidnap cubby wherever I find him and you will have to come over to take him back. :) You are welcome anytime lady.

Havah: Isn't she!!!

Hipgran: Oh yes, according to V , I still don't cook the way his mom used to. Not that I care...hmf

Monica: I'd say 2 tsp and then add a pinch just to make sure. I really do not know how these people give those exact measurements.

Art: hahaha. But you better start measuring your stuff in spoons by the time your son/ daughter starts asking you for recipes.

Sumana: I thnk it is a comfort food for most of us because that is the first decent food most of us have tasted as babies. :)

Biju: and???

Vandana: Aha...now the secret is out! And I bet your eyeball recipes taste even better than the ones on your blog. drooooool.
Thank you for the lovely recipes, videos and pictures.

JLT: Thank you ma'm. How are you feeling? better?

WhatsInAName said...

haha loved this post! Even though i go with measuring everything, I end up being so drastically inconsistent that i never can predict how the dish will turn out ;-) I truly believe that cooking is genetical trait. What do you say? :-)

maduraiveeran said...

If you follow the recipe given by Wolfgang Puck, exactly to the amount he mentioned, would you become Wolfgang Puck? A Recipe is just a reference, the artist is in you and the art is in the way you cook. I recently wrote an article "Zen and the art of Cooking". But seriously what's wrong with Rasam? If not anything I can just have Rasam Rice, heck I just had that for lunch! I can swim in it! I can bath in it! Ok that was too much! But Rasam Rice and Appalam = Heaven for me. If you serve me that if I am your guest I will be very happy and leave a 1000 good wishes (Which is redeemable for Rasam Rice at my place for 10 times. Offer not valid with other wishes, Black out dates may apply. Please read fine prints that my daughter scribbles on the phonebook).

Pragya said...

I have been subscribing to your blog's feed for several months now and always enjoy reading what you have to say. I look forward to new posts. Loved this one and thought I'd drop by to say it!

Pragya

Anonymous said...

Nice topic, Lovely.
When I ventured in to cooking I used to ask my mom "how much water","how many spoons of masala", she used to get bewildered, exactly the way you described. And one day in sheer irritation, she was like "don't you have any sense of judgment and you say, you are doing your master’s”, I was like "forget it, I am not learning from you, you have been cooking for 30 years and can't you tell the measurements approximately"… we squabbled for a while. Also one other thing I have noticed (with my mom)...she used to give different ingredients list for the same dish at different times. One time she will not say “coriander powder”, other time she will ask me to add it, oh that was confusing too for a starter.

Now after couple of years of experience in cooking...may be I have gained judgment...but not able to convert it in to measurements. May be the story continues….